Crystal Princess


My 1989 Lotus Esprit Turbo (Non-SE)



I may not be impartial, but I think it is the most beautiful car in the world.

Window Motors
Window Motor Relay Mod
Fuses & Relays
The Speedo
Adjusting the Timing Belt
The Alternator
Headlight Motors
Radiator Vent Plug
Radiator hose from intake to water pump (thermostat)
Welding the exhaust manifold
Esprit Stainless Exhaust Manifold
Valentine One Mounting
The Dr.Hess 50 minute Turbo Removal Method

Battery Tender

Trunk Latch Peace Of Mind
Parts Substitutions



Well, I was getting tired of driving beaters all the time.  My daily driver has 237K miles on it (Toyota Truck).  My back-up daily driver has 248K miles on it (Toyota Truck).  The Seven was coming along, but still had (has) a ways to go and really isn't all that practical (regardless of what Phil says) especially with no roof/top planned.  So, I started to thinking about some new wheels.  But what to get?  My wife said "You always buy something practical.  Why don't you get what you really want?"  Well, Project 3SGTE Europa was calling, but I really didn't need to start another major automotive project without finishing the one I am on now.  I started seriously thinking about a SC400, that V8 being about the best I have ever driven.  But still, it isn't really what I wanted.  

I sort of figured that whatever I wound up with I would have to haul home, so I got the '86 Truck in good towing shape and bought a flat bed dove tail trailer.  

So, I started looking at Esprits.  Amazing what you can find on eBay.  Bought one with a Buy-It-Now for a fair price, loaded up the truck and headed to San Jose, CA.  Three days later, the Crystal Princess was sitting on the trailer behind the little red truck and we were headed back to Arkansas.  I decided to tow it because:  I have owned a Lotus before.  It is used, English and has lots of unknowns.  I figured better safe towing it across 1800 miles than broke down in Bumfuq New Mexico looking for a water pump for a 910 engine.

Now, towing a 2700 lb car on a 1500 lb trailer with a 4 cylinder 22R Toyota Truck is a bit of an adventure in itself.  Uphill was "challenging" but we would just tuck in with the 18 wheelers and do the best we could.  Through the desert we would also have to turn the AC off and the heater on high on the hills to keep the temp down.  I think if I went with a genuine Toyota fan clutch, that would help, and I have heard that a 22RTE radiator is bigger and bolts in.  We'll have to see.  Gas milage was 19 MPG under load, 21 with just the trailer.  Not too bad, huh?  Truck had 248K miles on it when we got home.  Two days leter when I took it to work, the left rear wheel bearing went out.  What timing.


Window Motors

Guess what?  Lotus did not make window motors!! Yes, it is true.  They went to the parking lot and pulled someone's Jag apart and designed the windows around that.  So, what that means is that when your window motor gives up, you can replace it with one from a Jag for a fraction of the cost of a new or rebuilt.  I bought one extra for each side off eBay.  Paid $15 for one and $1 for the other plus shipping.  Rebuilt out of Florida is about $250 ea.  The important thing to realize is that there are several different types of Jag window motor out there.  The Esprit has the skinny flat one instead of the big round one, and the Esprit has an 8 tooth gear on the gear box part.  Some Jag's have 10 teeth.  Also, a Left Esprit window motor is the same as the Front Right Jag motor, and vice versa.  The actual motor part is all the same, but the gear box part bolted to the motor part is a mirror image on each side.  Different year Jag motors will work, but if you want a drop in replacement maybe with the regulator too, try these:  88-91 Vandem Plas, 81-87 XJ6, 87-90 XJS Coupe.  There are some good tutorials out there on taking the door apart and getting to the motors, so I'll leave that alone.  Check the EspritFactFileHere is my eBay search for Jag window motors.  I know these things because I had to fix both my motors.  The driver's side responded well to a thorough cleaning and lube, but the passenger side was toast.  The little brush holder melted.  I replaced it with a motor from a Chevy truck, which I had to do a little Dremmel tool work on to get to fit with the original gear box.  Seems that English Delco used a different brush holder than US Delco.

More details:  My Chevy truck replacement motor went to the same fate as the original one.  Toasted brush holder.  So, there are Delco and Bosch Jag window motors.  The Delco are the ones we need as a drop in, but the Bosch can be made to work.  Problem is the Bosch, as the one from the 88 XJ6 I bought off eBay, is almost the right one, but the little spacer thingies that the bolts go into are too short.  So, I made some adapter spacers on my lathe out of some brass I had around to hold the motor off to just the right spacing.  If anyone is interested, I'll send you a drawing of the spacers and you can make them yourself or have them made.  

Why did my replacement die?  I suspect low voltage at the motor due to the switch arrangement.  I am working on a relay to reside inside the door and utilize the +12V from the lighter.  Total cost should be about $40 for the two relays from O'Reilly's auto parts and a couple of diodes from Radio Shack.


Window Motor Relay Mod

Here is a scan of a schematic I drew up to use two commonly available relays to run a  window motor without putting a load on the switch.  Part of the problem is the switch gets fried by the current draw of the motor.  So, if you use relays as the later cars have, the switch should last a long time.  In theory anyway.  So I drew up and tested the schematic.  I haven't installed it, so it is technicall still a WIP (Work In Progress) but electrically it works.  The diodes are just any standard silicone diode such as a 1N4004 from Radio Shack or salvaged from just about any piece of junk electronics.  There isn't much current through them, we just use them for the logic.  The input wires on the left are the wires that originally went to the motor.  They now just drive the relays.  The battery symbol represents a source of 12V.  I was thinking of using the lighter supply, but never got that far.  The 12V can be on all the time, it won't drain the battery and the windows still won't work without the key on.  The other choice for the +12v would be splicing into the line going to the window switch.  The relays are Borg Warner R802 DPST 12V, 20A contacts and were $18 each at O'Reilley's.  I wanted to use cheaper ones, but that was all I could find easily and they should be available everywhere.  I superglued the two together.  Wires to the relay coils can be small, like 20ga, or 22ga as there isn't much current there.  The rest of the wires should be 12ga or 14ga.  When the + voltage is applied to one wire and - to the other from the OEM switch, one relay will energize and the proper polarity will be sent to the motor.  When the polarity is reversed fromt he switch to the relay pairs, the other relay will energize and the opposite polarity will go to the motor.

Others have made relays for their window motors, but I didn't look at what they did.  I just started from a clean sheet and this is what I came up with.  If it is identical to someone else's, well, I guess we think alike.  This was just how I figured to do it without modifying anything very much.  My windows are working OK right now (knock on wood) so I never got around to installing it, and because of the aftermarket window controller I have, I would have to do some rewiring and go back to stock first to get this to work properly.  It seems the aftermarket controller has a current sensor in it and if the current is too low, it will turn off the motor.  Putting my relays in drops the current seen by the switch/aftermarket controller to next to nothing, so the controller freaks out.  With a stock setup going through the switches, this wouldn't be a problem.


Fuses & Relays

Cut this out and tape it with some clear package tape to the underside of your front relay cover:


You may have to "save as" the image, then open it in an image editor and print from there. The size is set to 3-3/4" wide, which just fits under the cover, but I don't think IE will print it out correctly. You can add the image to a MS Word document and play with the size until it is 3-3/4" wide, then print it. Even though it looks a little fuzzy in an image editor or just in IE, when printed out at the correct  size on a laser printer it is quite readable.

New Medical Term: LNS: Lotus Neck Syndrome. A spasm of the right sterno-clido-mastoid muscle caused by prolonged time in the Lotus Position.

Hey, why don't the English put hinges on the dashboard? I mean, is it some kind of eternal English optimism? Like this will be the vehicle that will never need someone under the dash fixing the electrics. Kinda like yeah, Hitler only wants Poland, then he will stop. Here is another one:  We'll make guns illegal, then people won't shoot each other and crime will go down.  Really bizarre English optimism.


The Speedo:


So, like most of this vintage, my odometer went out at about 50K miles.  So, what to do?  Get it repaired for $150 and have a repaired speedo good for who knows how long, or just replace it with a better one that I might actually be able to see?  Well, on my last trip to Sturgis, I stopped at the Harley dealer in Souix Falls, S.D., and was talking to the parts guy about the last year when I stopped there to buy yet another speedo cable, and he told me of Dakota Digital, who make speedos for bikes, cars, etc.  They even had a display set up at Sturgis, so I looked at their stuff then.  I decided to just put one of their units in and dump the VDO POS all together.  A talk with their tech support guy and it looked like the ODYR-01-1 was what I needed.  Not wanting to mess with the vehicle speed sensor (VSS), I opted for the speedometer cable sender adapter thingie for an extra 20 or so and also had them set the mileage  to what my now dead odometer was (another 20).  About $240 with shipping.  The main PITA is that the hole in the dash/VDO guage is 4-1/8" and the new speedo is 4-3/8".  

I took the instrument pod off, which is 4 bolts, 3 plugs, one speedo cable and about 5 minutes on the 89 non-SE.  Really easy, and approaching that flip-top dash concept.  Then about an hour with a Dremel brand moto-tool and an air die grinder and the hole was just right.  Wiring was easy:  Switched +12v and ground from the dead clock plug, night instrument lights (dims the speedo display) from the no longer needed VDO speedo light bulb plug, and two wires (power and signal) to the cable sender adapter thingie.  The cable sender adapter thingie didn't quit fit the end of the speedo cable, but I had anticipated this and the Dakota Digital guys said that most people just wrap tape around their sender until it fits the nut thing on the cable.  Did that.  Calibration is easy.  You hold the button in, start the car, release the button, push it when AUTO shows up, drive exactly 1 mile, push the button again and you are calibrated.  I measured off 1 mile by Camry and by map to confirm, and calibrated it that way.

Problem:  The speedo cable does not move at a constant rate.  It binds a little, so it moves fast/slow/fast/slow, etc.  At a steady rate, this is OK, but when accelerating, the digital display would jump anywhere from +/- 5MPH to +/-20MPH.  This kinda makes it about useless, especially in the cold.  It is worse when the weather is cold, as the grease in the cable gets thicker and exacerbates the problem.  So, what to do?  Well, a look through the schematic showed that the ECM has a VSS input after all.  I didn't look into it too thoroughly, as I didn't want to mess with the ECM wiring and with running the extra wire.  As the sender thingie was not working out, taping into the VSS started to look better and better.  The PO had an early 90's cell phone in the car, which I removed, but I left the wires in place.  There was a head unit in the cabin, a shielded data cable going to the boot and a transceiver back there.  So, I just used one of the wires in that cable.  I tapped into the VSS at the ECM.  There are two wires that run to the VSS from the ECM.  They are purple and yellow and are twisted together and go to the middle plug.  Lotus (English) wiring has purple as in general being fused +12v, so I figured the yellow one would be the one I needed.  I tapped into the wire near the ECM plug.  Only the signal wire from the speedo was needed.  After re-calibrating it, it is now working great.  Rock steady  Remember this is on a 89 Non-SE.  SE's have the different colors and II think both are shielded.  They are also on a different plug.  Mark Wiens suggests an undocumented output pin used for later models (S4s' ) at J2-B8.

A nice thing about this speedo is that you can actually see the difference between 70 and 80 MPH.  And you can actually see the thing when it starts to wind up there.  Actually, you can see it all the time, which is kinda nice.  It also gives you 0-60 times, top speed, has a trip and service odometer and is in general, pretty nice.  I am happy with it.  I do now have an extra sender thingie, if anyone wants it.

Adjusting the timing belt:

Here is a thread from Tim Engle:

--- In, "Tim Engel" <tengel@m...> wrote:
> From: "Dr. Hess" <hess@f...>
> To: <>
> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 9:48 PM
> Subject: [turboesprit] Timing Belt Tensioner
> >

> > Is there some secret to getting to the 17mm nyloc nut on the timing
> > belt tensioner? I can't seem to get a combination wrench or a socket
> > on it. Do all the accessory belts have to come off so you can get to
> > it? Or is there some secret wrench that "just" fits?
> >
> > And how can you see the timing marks without a mirror from below?
> > Damned if I can see them at all from the top.
> >
> > I need to adjust the timing belt tension. It is at 25 on the Kricket
> > scale.

> Dr.Hess,

> You will need to clear a path first, then use a 17mm open end wrench on the
> Nyloc nut. A socket will work for initially loosening the nut; however,
> when you get around to tightening things up again, a socket usually
> interferes with the 19mm wrench that's required for the hex on the eccentric
> adjuster. Install the 19mm as straight up as you can on the eccentric hex,
> then go after the 17mm with the open end wrench at an angle to clear the 19.
> A bent 17mm would be good if you have one.

> I think it's easier in the long run to remove the alternator, it's belt,
> tension brace and triangle bracket. And removing the alternator is easier
> (ie, possible) if you remove the intake plenum and air filter box first.
> Then you have a pretty clear shot at the tensioner from above without
> disturbing the other two V-belts or their pulleys from below. It sounds
> like a lot of work, but it's more work if you try to avoid the work.
> Heck, you'll waste more time thinking about alternatives than it will take
> to yank the airbox and plenum. Just suck up and do it, and you'll be done
> much faster in the long run.

> Be sure to disconnect the battery before removing the alternator.

> If you leave enough tension on the Nyloc to pinch the eccentric a bit, you
> can still adjust the eccentric with one wrench, yet it will stay where you
> leave it when you let go. However, if you attempt to tighten the Nyloc
> with one wrench, the friction drag will pull the eccentric around and
> change the tension setting. So one-wrench it while adjusting the belt
> tension with some Nylon tension, then use two opposing wrenches to tighten
> the Nyloc.

> Be certain that you adjust the belt tension by turning the eccentric into
> the belt counter-clockwise as viewed looking at the front of the engine.
> That will take the eccentric down around the bottom of it's orbit and up
> into the belt. Up over the top of the orbit and down against the belt is
> incorrect.

> With the eccentric-style tensioner, very little movement makes a big
> difference in belt tension. Just a nudge is good for a quick 10 lbs.

> I just did the job yesterday, so I know your pain.
> Have fun,
> Tim Engel

After removing the plenum, tube thing where you guys have a charge cooler and alternator, I could actually get to the tensioner. I took a "Sears" brand 19mm combination wrench from my "Junk Tools" bucket (couldn't find one at my favorite pawn shop in their 25 cent bins) and ground the box end down to about 3/8" or so thick. With this, I could hold the adjuster in the correct position and get a 17mm combination wrench on the nyloc nut.

I found the 17mm socket and short extension I dropped down the front of the motor. It was hiding behind/under a hose. I think the fairies were f*(#ing with me, as I must have looked for about 2 hours before I found it and I am sure I looked several times where I eventually found it. I am glad I found it, as it made me kinda uncomfortable leaving a rather large hunk of metal floating around an open timing belt on an interferance motor.

Oh, and I was using the Krickit guage wrong. I didn't have the little lip on the edge. So I was running with less than 25 lbs of tension on the guage. Probably around 10. Guess it was time to adjust it, huh?

The Alternator

Well, the Valeo alternator started to die at about 55K miles.  Actually, I think it was just the voltage regulator.  Started to drip black ooze onto the AC compressor, and when the Ac compressor or headlights came on, the voltage in the system would drop to the point that the Valentine One was rebooting.  I replaced it with a Bosch ($80 + tax).  Ed's page  has just about everything you need to know, except what to ask for at the parts house:  1987 BMW 325i.  About all I could add to Ed's writeup is that the bolt I used when fabbing a new hold down bolt was a 90mm long 8mm x 1.0mm (couldn't find a 1.25 TP in that length) that I got from Ace Hardware, I had to grind down the original half moon key thing because the Bosh keyway wasn't as deep as the Valeo, and I took a Dremel brand Moto-tool to the casing when I "clocked" the back.  Didn't want to turn otherwise.  I didn't have to take much off, just clean it up a little so the ears would clear.  Oh, and I used a hand operated impact screwdriver to break loose the screws holding the thing together and I shortened the screws a little after it was all back together.  Put the hold down bolt in first, then put the pivot bolt in.  And the belt was a tight fit.  I put it over the alternator pulley then partially over the harmonic balancer pulley and turned the motor over by hand to get it on the rest of the way.

In summary:  Remove 4 long screws, dremel interfering housing areas, rotate (clock) back part, replace 4 screws, cut at least the 2 left side screws down so they don't stick out as much, remove pulley/fan/spacers from old POS alternator,  Place: 1 thin spacer, fan, grind down woodruff key on flat edge until pulley slips over, put woodruff key and pulley on, bore out fat spacer until it fits over bolt, place fat spacer over bolt, nut. Get longer bolt for hold-down or fab a new piece, cut off spade terminal connector end of small wire, replace end with eye, put on D+ terminal, place big wire on B+ terminal, put RF noise supression capacitor on one of the long bolts on the back and lock down with nut, other end goes to spade terminal.

Funny thing, though:  My V1 was still rebooting after a big load change like headlights, etc.  I went through the schematics in the manual and figured it had to be either the central connection that powers everything at the starter solenoid or at the bonnet end junction box point.  So I started at the starter end and what do you know?  The nut holding all the wires on was loose.  The cable from the solenoid to the alternator also looked a bit iffy, corroded and burnt a bit, so I replaced it with some wire I had laying around that did the exact same job from the 4AGE  20 valve.  Voltage at my volt meter in the dash now reads a steady 13.8-ish and the V1 is rock steady.  I am still glad I ditched the Valeo.  Black goo dripping from a piece of electronics can never be a good thing.   

Headlight Motors

I rebuilt my headlight motors with a kit from  Part number 209280.  There are several out there, but this one has everything you need, including new gaskets, white lithium grease and some extra nuts and bolts in case you destroy the screws when you take it apart.  Sanj has a pictorial guide here.  I would add that I did not remove the bolt as shown in picture T0003689.jpg but instead removed the screw and nut on the motor side of the bracket.  The bolt shown has a nut mounted in typical Lotus fashion, that is, not captive and in a place that you virtually can't get to it.  Taking the phillips head screw out was much easier.  Unless you have arms about 2 inches across and 4 ft long, that is.  The reason I rebuilt them is that my headlight pods were bouncing a bit when on the road.  This was kinda irritating and the right one especially would droop down eventually.  When I pulled them apart, the little white button things were intact and not like grated parmesan cheese like others have found, and really showed little wear.  But, since I had bought the kit and gone through the trouble of taking the first motor out and apart, I went ahead and did the kits to both of them.  Well, it cured my bouncing headlights and I am quite pleased with it.

Radiator Vent Plug

Well, after changing my radiator fluid, I developed a leak at the radiator vent plug (located near the left front tire).  The threads were stripped.  I pulled and pulled trying to get the thing out until the part inside broke, falling back into the radiator, so I pulled the lower hose and flushed it out.  Fun fun fun.  Then I found that the inside the radiator part is threaded too, so if you want to remove it, you unscrew it until it pulls up, then pull up some more and unscrew it some more and it will come out.  I replaced it with a nylon bolt from the Racer's Friend, Ace Hardware Store, of 3/8" x 16TPI.  Not that this is not a metric part.  Having an engine lathe, I bored a small hole about half way through, then drilled a hole across the threads and through the central hole, thus providing a easy vent method, but if you dont' want to to that far and just take the solid bolt out and put it back, that will work too.  

Radiator hose from intake to water pump (thermostat)

I used 5.5" of Gates 24022, which is their universal radiator straight hose in 1-3/8" and two new clamps. Did not have to pull the intake manifold.

I put a piece of foam rubber (cut from a hospital matress, actually) in the trunk behind the front trunk wall. Great for saving the knees while you are in the trunk laying over the motor. I cut a piece of 2x4 to fit across the top of the motor between the sides where the cover usually rides. This is great for leaning on without having to worry about leaning on the intake manifold and risking breaking that (a bad thing). Disconnect negative lead to battery as you have to work around the alternator with metal tools. I could get to the rear clamp by using a 1/4" drive socket with a long wobble extension from near the alternator. A mirror on a stick is real handy. Remove the bolt holding down all the sensor ground leads and the vacuum hose and tie it all out of the way. Cut off old hose and either deal with the mess as the antifreeze comes out or drain off the antifreeze first. Put some lube on the inside of the new hose. Slide back end in as far as it will go. Put 2 clamps on. Push front end down hard with a screw driver, pliers handle, whatever until the bottom of the hose lip is over the flange. With a small screw driver and a lot of hand force on the hose, pull the hose up over the top of the flange. Tighten clamps. Replace ground bolt and vacuum hose. Refill with fluid. Connect battery. 

Welding the exhaust manifold

When I welded my exhaust manifold, this is what I did:

* ID each crack (3 or 4) and clean with a wire brush
* Drill a 1/8" hole all the way through at the end of each crack to stop it from propigating
* Grind a V down into the cracks, not all the way through.
* Preheat the manifold to 400 degrees F in my oven
* Weld up with nickle welding rod (expensive stuff, like $22/lb) with my AC stick welder
* Post heat back to 400F, turn oven off and let cool down overnight (I have an oven in my shop just for such tasks)
* Sand blast the slag off the inside of the welds
* "Hole match" the manifold by drilling/grinding out each bolt hole to match the head stud pattern so the manifold goes on without being under stress

Just the welding and prep was a lot of work, not to mention getting the damn thing off and on. Cast iron is not the easiest stuff to make stick. I am not a professional welder, but from the research I did, this seems to be how the pro's do it when they want it done right. As you can imagine, just the process I described took a full day to do. If I just took it down to a shop, I seriously doubt they would have gone through all that trouble. They probably would have just heated it up with a torch, hit it with the nickle rod and said, "There you go. No guarantees."

Update:  Of the four cracks in the manifold, three held.  One failed next to the weld, which usually implies needing more post welding heat treating.  If I were to weld it again, I would add a step where I would heat each weld and surrounding areas with my big rose bud torch tip to a red color and then stick it in the oven overnight.


Which brings us to My:

Esprit Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold

Not wanting to spend a grand on another cast manifold which some say works and some say will still crack on you, and after having successfully made one for the seven, I decided to build my own.  I did that CAD work on the flanges and had them water jet cut out of 1/2" 304.  I used schedule 40 304 pipe.  I built a jig, cut and fit all the pipe and tacked it together then had my Chicken Processing Manufacturer plant (great source for stainless work) TIG it up.  It was a lot of work.  Here are some pics: WIP1 WIP2 WIP3 Tacked1 Tacked2 Tacked3 Tacked4 Done1 Done2 Done3

It has been holding up well.  When I built it and before I put it on, I offered to have it duplicated, but the cost would have been one large, and I had no takers.   Now that it is on, I can't get it duplicated because the shop needs one to look at.  It has to be just right or you will never get it in there. You snooze, you lose.   If anyone is interested, I can provide the flanges and you are on your own after that. 


Valentine One Mounting

I took a piece of 16 ga stainless and cut/bent it into the proper
shape (use some paper or stiff thin cardboard for a pattern) and put
that under the mount for the rear view mirror. The mirror screws
hold it up. The distal end of the mount has a hole in it. Through
this hole is a bolt that attaches the detector part of the visor
mount (visor clamp removed). The detector then slides into the mount
which is bolted to the metal (painted black) which is screwed to the
head liner thingie. For the wiring, I got some very thin phone
line. It is flat, but all I had laying around the house was off
white. I painted this black at the end and put a RJ11 on it. This
fits up behind the headliner and runs down the passenger side A
piller. I could push it along the edge of the A piller pad thing so
I didn't have to take it off. Then the wire runs under the dash to
the Valentine power thingie which is spliced in to a switched wire.
I thought about getting a remote and mounting it over the steering
column, but it really works out well this way. Just glance up at the
rear view mirror and you can see how many thugs are trying to rob
you. You can hit the silence button easily. Took an afternoon to
make. I used stainless because that is what I have laying around. A
piece of 16ga carbon steel would work fine as well. I used some VHT
black paint and baked it in my shop oven.  Here is a pic:


The Dr.Hess 50 minute Turbo Removal Method:

Jack up back of car, place on jackstands.

Remove trunk (10mm head bolts under carpet, 4mm allen screws at the top. Remove vacuum lines to airbox and throttle actuator. Mark/draw picture if this is your first time. Pivot trunk around still connected wires and place on top of engine.

Remove left rear wheel.

Unbolt (3ea, 17mm) downpipe. Put a block of wood between it and the shock or frame to hold it up out of the way.

Remove intake $150 dryer hose from turbo, bend out of the way.

Unbend the locktabs on turbo. Big screwdriver and a hammer are pretty handy.

Remove hoses: Oil feed, oil drain (bunch of long extensions), water feed, water drain. Plug water lines with a 3/8" bolt and tighten the hose clamps on them. Have these plugs ready to go when you pull the lines off so you don't loose a bunch of your expensive Toyota red coolant. Cover oil line ends with aluminum foil.

Remove turbo nuts. If it has been on a while, some penetrating oil may be necessary. I use a selection of combination wrenches including a Stanley stubby and Craftsman. I can get a full size Craftsman box end on the right front one if I'm lucky and the lock tab is all the way out of the way. Right rear is easy with a socket wrench. Left side takes the stubby open end once they are broke loose with the full size open end. You will likely have to raise the turbo up to undo the last part of the nuts on the left, so have the right side off by that point. You will also have to keep propping up the downpipe as it tends to get in the way.

Pull turbo off manifold.

Place on bench, cover exhaust manifold opening with foil, note time for the record. I think that's about it.


Battery Tender 

I bought this battery tender at HF: 

Which is called AUTOMATIC BATTERY FLOAT CHARGER. It goes on sale for half price occasionally. It is not a battery charger, but a keeper that just replaces what is normally lost to internal resistance, small drains, etc. As has been said, the Esprit is a battery killing machine. I have managed to get my losses down to 50 milliamps, but that is it. I have some more theories on where that is going, but haven’t pursued them. Hooking the tender up used to be a minor PITA. Popping the trunk, hooking the alligator clips up, etc. So, what I did was to buy two sets of trailer light connections and a magnetic trailer light wire holder at Wal*Mart, an inline fuse holder, 3 amp fuse and some heat shrink tube (Radio Shack). Ground wire goes straight to the negative terminal. Positive goes to the fuse holder, then the positive terminal. Other two wires not used. The wires exit through a hole located directly underneath the battery (OEM – drain hole?). The magnetic holder thingie goes over the end and allows you to stick the wires down to some metal (not easy on our cars). I put it on a little metal bar thing under the trunk at the very back, sort of under the taillight. I have a left side exhaust exit, so the right side has a U on the muffler. I then cut the alligator clips off the tender and soldered the opposite end of the trailer light connector on, noting polarity to be consistent with the car side. I took the extra connector which matches the one on the tender and cut the wires off short, covered what was left with silicone and I use that to keep the end clean when not in use. Now, when I put the car up, I wait till the exhaust has cooled, reach under, grab the connector, hook it to the tender and I have a good battery next week when I disconnect the tender, put the stub connector on and stick the magnet to the metal plate.  Here are some pics: Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4


Trunk Latch Peace Of Mind 

Next up, after reading the many horror stories of the boot not opening, I decided to put an emergency release mechanism in. From my reading, most of the time it is the right side release that fails to open. So, what I did is put a right side release in. If you look at the back of the right taillight, you will see that the cover is held on by a wing nut on a stud. I took a nut that fits that stud, then welded a short U of welding rod to the nut. Next, I took some 200 lb monofilament fishing line and ran it through the hole under the battery, through the U and up to the latch release, where I tied it to the part that moves. I left some slack in the line and routed this under the tail light cover and stuffed a piece of foam rubber between the cover bottom and the trunk to hold it there. Under the car, I wrapped the line around my battery tender wires and secured it to that. Now, should something bad happen, I can unwrap the fishing line and give it a good pull and release the right side latch. Instead of welding the U to the nut, you could probably get by with some 12 ga wire and a couple of nuts. It is important to have the loop there to provide a point for the line to work against, and that stud is almost perfectly in line with the latch release. The loop needs to be smooth so as not to bind the fishing line.  Here is a  pic.  


HKS SSQV BOV Blow Off Valve

Maybe I have watched too much Initial D, but I just had to have that PUSHHHHT like the Takahashi brothers.  And, my turbo rebuilder said that all turbos should have a BOV, so I started looking for what to get.  The word on the boards (GRM) was that the HKS Super Sequential BOV was the one to get.  I looked on eBay, but with all the counterfeits out there, I decided to just get one from a name brand place and bought it from, a GRM advertiser (well, once anyway).  I also bought the weld on aluminum flange (bung) for it.

I took off the airbox and brought it and the flange down to my favorite chicken processing plant manufacturer that does my welding.  I showed them where I wanted it and they drilled out the hole and welded in the flange.  They have a woman there that is just magic with a TIG welder.  She welded it from the inside and I didn't even have to repaint the outside.  Here's a pic: Inside.  Here are a couple of the outside:  Outside1 Outside 2.

For the vacuum source, I read where someone went to all the trouble of drilling and tapping a port on one of the intake runners after the throttle plate, but that seemed like too much work to me.  The de-structions that came with the BOV said to use a source like at the fuel pressure regulator, and it came with a couple of T's and a filter, so that's what I did.  I bought some vacuum line and replaced the part going to the regulator and put one of the T's in.  Here it is all together:  BOV.  I need to add some nylon ties for the vacuum line just to clean up the looks, but it's done.

One more thing:  The de-structions that came with the thing (mostly in Japanese) weren't very complete.  It completely neglected to mention that there is a flat side and a beveled side to the C clip retainer, and that the beveled side faces outward.  I found this out when I bought the replacement ring for  the one I lost.

Works great. Vroom-Psssst-Vroom.



Parts Substitutions

OK, here is my list of parts substitutions.  I have collected these from various web sites and mailing lists from all over the world.  Some I researched myself, mostly by spending time with the books or going through boxes at an auto parts store or through online catalogs.  The parts guys are getting used to me and just kinda get out of my way.  I just recently started documenting where I got the tip from, so if you are the original source for any of this info, let me know and I'll be happy to list you.  "Confirmed" means that this is something I have tried and personally confirmed that it works. It is a pretty high standard, I know, but there are a lot (well, several) of parts substitution lists out there that are wrong or parts are listed for the wrong years.  Unless otherwise noted, this applies to my 1989 Non-SE Esprit Turbo.  Many of these things will cross over to many other Esprits, especially 88-92's.  If you know of any errors or have anything to add, send me an email. And, if you post something somewhere, such as on the Yahoo list and I like it, I'll add it here with your name.  You have been warned.  If all else fails, on ignition and EFI  try 1989 Chev Cavalier and 1990 Olds Cutlass. 

Note:  While I provide this list for the better of all Esprit owners and share my knowledge freely, if you are going to republish it, be sure to site your reference.  The only official copy of this list at this time is on the EFF, who asked me if he could reproduce it.  




Description Manufacturer Part_number Comments Source Confirmed
AC Compressor Sanden Corp SD-508 model 4509 New model for R134A, replaces 8990/9285 John Hammond No
AC Compressor Sanden Corp SD-508 model 9036 <>, SAN078003C rdforema No
AC Compressor Sanden Corp SD 505/507 16-1144 Type E Vertical Flare without Service Port Mark No
AC Compressor Sanden Corp SD-508
Dr.Hess Yes
AC Compressor

Try early to mid 80's Peugot 504 or 505. Exact match AndrewP 1989 No
AC Compressor, V8 AC-Delco 15-20335,15-21209 1995 Buick Skylark Limited V6 3.1L Paul No
AC Compressor, V8 100054 / 10632N
Paul No
AC Drier
51440 10160-106 HI Written on side, 93SE Dave No
AC Drier Four Season 33234 Fits 87 HCI, larger, hoses reversed, flare fittings; converts O-ring->Flare Mark Jeansonne No
AC Drier The Compressor Warehouse TCW 17-2501 From The Compressor Warehouse John Hammond No
AC Drier Carquest 208484 Fits 1982 Mazda RX7, same as Four Seasons 33234 Jim Knowles No
AC Drier CarQuest 208484 Fits 94 S4, R12 systems only. Jim Knowles No
AC Expansion Valve AC Delco 155489 Cross reference of four seasons 38604, fits 1979 MERCEDES-BENZ 280SE 2.8L 2746cc L6 FI Dr.Hess No
AC Expansion Valve NAPA 207587 Should be the right one. Jeff (via Dave) No
AC Expansion Valve Egelhof N CH5040 West Germany Try 1980 Toyota Cressida, 93SE. Questionable. Dave No
AC Expansion Valve Four Seasons 38604 Exact replacement on 87 HCI Mark No
AC Expansion Valve CarQuest 209534 Fits 94 S4, R12 and R134a systems to 1995 Jim Knowles No
AC O ring Murray 24610 For lines at compressor Dr.Hess Yes
AC Schrader valves Murray 59346 For compressor and bottom hose Dr.Hess Yes
Air Dam Volvo 93-97 850 front bumper top top piece from front bumper upside down is close fit to bottom of Esprit lip Joakim No
Air Filter WIX 46004, 46005 Fits Jag
Air Filter Ryco A266
Simon No
Air Filter K&N 33-2579 Some have successfully used this by cutting the metal from another standard filter to use as a frame.
Air Filter K&N 33-2784 Preferred cross, drop in, but hard to come by.
Air Filter, V8 K&N 33-2547 Fits 1996 V8 Marco247 No
Air Filter, V8

Same as 1993 Vauxhall Nova 1.6L, 1993 Opel Corsa A 1.6L Dr.Hess No
Alternator Bosch
Same as 1987 BMW 325i 2.5L 6 cyl. Takes some mods. See notes. Dr.Hess Yes
Alternator Ultima Import (rebuilders) 14812 $80 + core at O'Reilly's. See notes Dr.Hess Yes
Alternator Duralast 14789 Bosch replacement Jim Knowles No
Alternator Bosch AL49X Better Replacement, from BMW's: E30.'86-'91, E24...'86-?, E23...'96-'97, and E28...'86-'88 (not M series cars), Audi 5K. lotusracer.home No

Same as 86-88 VW Scirocco, mod the mount hole or use different bolt, no need to clock KCTECSER No
Alternator, Motorola (G Car, 1983) Bosch 14786 or any 14786 Just replace the pulley and drill out the adjusting bolt hole with a 5/16 drill. (G Car 1983) gtlotus No
Alternator, V8 Bosch Same as 2001 Caddy Catera Remove back plastic vent, shave down housing a little Judge JoeyO No
Antennae Metra/Roadworks aw-pw22 Wire: Ant-black to Veh-black A-blue to V-green A-red to V-blue David N. Juntunen No
Axle Pin removal Punch (Drift)
5/32 for inner, 3/16 for outer
PetePeter No
Ball Joint, Front Lower Vauxhall (GM)

Superdave No
Ball Joint, Front Upper

Same as Spitfire
Battery Optima 34/78DT Redtop or Yellowtop. Yellow top has better discharge/recharge cycling abilities for less frequently used vehicles
Bearings, Engine, Main Clevite MB2035P One Pair Chrysler 318 position 1,2&4 component part of main set MS540P Judson No
Bearings, Engine, Main Clevite From Chrysler 318 Block can be line bored to use non-standard plain (not grooved) Clevite Mopar 318 main bearings Judson No
Bearings, Rod End Chevy SBC Rods can be modified to accept Chevy bearings Judson No
Bearings, Rod End Clevite CB745P/H H for high-performance) EARLY small block Chevy Judson No
Belt Tension Guage Gates Krikit 91107 O'Reilley's, $12.49
Belt, AC S4 Gates 9313
Sanj No
Belt, Alternator Goodyear Gatorback 15351 (11AV0875 Fits better than Gates Sanj No
Belt, Alternator Gates 7340 3/8"x34-5/8", Tight fit with the Bosch, but next one bigger is too loose. Dr.Hess Yes
Belt, Alternator S4 Gates 7345
Sanj No
Belt, PS S4 Gates 7355
Sanj No
Belt, Water pump/Vacuum Pump NAPA 7345 Premuim XL

Belt, Water/Vacuum pump Goodyear Gatorback 15346 (11AV0865) Fits better than Gates Sanj No
Bolt holding cam tower to head tool Apex, Snap-on TX-3410, E-10 JAE carries replacement bolts
Boost Gauge, Aftermarket Autometer 2-1/16" black face/bezel $50 shipped from Jeg's, run a vacuum line to the engine bay, fits right in the factory VDO gauge spot rjjuge No
Boot, CV Joing, Inner Renault
Same as Renault Fuego 1600 Turbo/2000 GLYh No
Brake Accumulator (SE) Jaguar JLM1907

Brake Accumulator (SE) GM 25528382,88927271 Fits 1991 Buick Regal,Century, Pontiac Grand Am, Cutlas Supreme Powermaster 3 KF / EFF No
Brake Calipers, Front, Rotors, Bearings, Seals Toyota 1984 Celica
Squelch No
Brake Light Switch Wells 4849
Pete 90SE No
Brake Light Switch Echlin SL341 at NAPA for $7.69 Pete 90SE No
Brake Light Switch Ford
From an unknown English Ford Gareth No
Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Ford
English Ford, maybe from a Transit Van Les No
Brake Pads Porterfield R4S Or Minitex.
Brake Pads, Front EBC DP2456(green)

Brake Pads, Front Ferodo 3432F For Toyota front brakes, OEM Sanj No
Brake Pads, Front EBC DP4456R Yellow Stuff Excellent pads Dr.Hess Yes
Brake Pads, Rear Mazda
Fits late 80's RX7's Eddie No
Brake Pads, Rear Lucas GP248 Also fits Eagle Premier Ed No
Brake Pads, Rear

Same as: Renault 82-4 Fuego, 84-92 25 (all engines) Dr.Hess No
Brake Pads, Rear EBC DP4189R Yellow Stuff Excellent pads Dr.Hess Yes
Brake Pads, Rear Ferodo DB102S Curved lower edge, fit better than Mazda ones Simon No
Brake Pads/calipers, Front Toyota Front 84 Celica Toyota Celica RA60/61 SA63 RA65 81-84, Toyota Supra Mk2 MA61 81-85, Left=Right
Brake, ABS pressure switch GM 88927270 1988-91 Pontiac, Buick, Olds Zig No
Brake, ABS pressure switch Delco 18M873 1988-91 Pontiac Grand Prix, Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass Supreme Zig No
Brake, ABS pressure switch
18019994,18019650,18015026 These are the range numbers that Lotus passed on to Jay and Jeff Les Jones No
Brake, ABS pressure switch AC/Delco 18013988 1991 Corvette Jim Knowles No
Brake, Rotor, Front Brembo 43512-14080 Brembo discs 43512-14080
Brake, Rotor, Front Toyota Front 84 Celica 82-85 Celica Supra 2.8L, 2.4L Dr.Hess No
Brake, Rotor, Front EBC GDC-323 Brake Rotors, Slotted/ Dimpled, Iron, Gold Zinc Plated Dr.Hess No
Brakes, ABS Accumulator GM 25528382 For SE, Available at . Replaces A082J6138S, Accumulator, Nitrogen Charged Sanj No
Brakes, ABS Switch AC Delco 18M873 For ABS SE's. Same as Buick Reatta Zig No
Brakes, Rear Renault
'84 Renault Le Car front brakes, likely pads only.
Brakes, Rotor, Front EBC GD323
dknighto No
Bulb, 3rd brake light Eiko JCD 12v 20WH2O 12V 2W G4. Cut a small bit off the wires that plug in. Brian M. No
Bulb, 3rd brake light GE Halogen 20 Low Voltage Landscaping Lighting bulb, available at Wal-Mart, same as 891 Halogen automotive Lorenzo No
Bulb, Light, Small, for VDO instruments EiKO 37 (37BP) For small VDO gauges such as Volt, Fuel. This bulb is slightly larger dia., but fits. Reuse old green condom Dr.Hess Yes
Bulb, Tail Light
Sanj No
Bulb, TellTale Indicators
194 size Use a low watage size Atwell Haines No
Cam Tower Gasket Pookie Loctite 518 Easier to source and work apply, still appropriate for the task. Virtually zero thickness (.0005"). What Tim uses. Tim Engle No
Cam Tower Gasket Pookie Loctite 515 Same as new Lotus spec Permabond A-136. Direct cross reference Tim Engle No
Cam Tower Gasket Pookie Loctite 504 Original Lotus spec from back in the 907 days, has about .0015" film thickness Tim Engle No
Clutch Master Cylinder Willwood 260-6579 0.700 bore, swap rod over from old MC Mike R No
Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit Girling 5/8:SP1963, 0.70:SP2102 Size on side of MC. Some cars (SE) may have 0.70 Jeff No
Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit BrakeBest MCK351016 Rebranded Lucas, $10 from O'Reilly's. Fits 1979 TR7 Dr.Hess Yes
Clutch Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit Girling
Same as TR7, 5/8" bore Atwell Haines No
Clutch Master Cylinder
Master Cylinder
Very likely same as 1981-ish (1971-83?) Series III Land Rover, 1961-71 Series IIA Dr.Hess No
Clutch Slave Cylinder

Landrover Series IIA Simon No
Clutch Slave Cylinder Girling
Land Rover, 1961-71 Series IIA Dr.Hess No
Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit Beck Arney 071-4659 Same as 1979 Triumph TR7, among others Dr.Hess Yes
Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit Girling Either SP2029 or SP4190 7/8" Jeff No
Coil, Ignition MSD 8224 Drop in replacement. Use two. Dr.Hess Yes
Coil, Ignition Accel 140017 2 ea Reed No
Coolant level sensor, low, S4s/V8 Peugeot
From a Peugeot 205 Cti/Gti from 1987-1990 (1.6 or 1.9L) Paul via Sanj No
Coolant Temp. Sensor, ECU MasterPro WT3000 1990 Chevy Barretta GTZ lxmichaels No
Coolant Temp. Sensor, ECU Wells SU109 88 Chevy Barretta 6 cyl, chase threads first, use sealant, 4 cyl Delco injected cars blackangelesprit No
Crank Angle Sensor GM 10456555 From 89 Chevy Cavalier Tony Black89 No
Crank Angle Sensor Wells SU137
Dan No
Crank Angle Sensor GM 10457661 SE, try this one first. Squelch No
Crank Angle Sensor AC Delco 213153 SE, Crossed from Squelch's GM part number, 1990 : CHEVROLET : CORVETTE ZR-1 : 5.7L 350 cubic inch V8 MFI (J) : Dr.Hess No
Crankcase breather valve Standard Motor
DSV15 spark delay valve "the white one"
Crankshaft (907) Bedford Truck

CV Boot, Inner Renault
(S4s) Same as Renault Fuego 1600 Turbo/2000 Glyn No
Dash Light Switches

Early Austin Metro? pauli No
DIS Ignition MSD MSD 6211 Also get 2 ea 8870 interfaces and 8874 Harness Dr.Hess No
Door Handle

From Austin Maxi, Marina or Triumph TR8 EFF, Terry No
ECM Engine Control Module, 1989 Non-SE GM-AC Delco 01228707,16198267 From Pontiac Grand Am 2.3L DOHC 4, 1988? 1989-91 Olds Cutlass, 2.3 DOHC L4 PFI “D” LD2, “A” LG0, (exc. “W” body) Sanj, temmck No
ECM Engine Control Module, SE GM-AC Delco 88999175 Drop in replacement for unavailable 1228708, $78+90 core from GM Parts Direct Mike R. No
ECM Engine Control Module, SE GM-AC Delco 01228708 89 Quad 4, 1990-91 2.3 DOHC L4 PFI “D” LD2, 1990 2.3 DOHC L4 PFI “A” LG0 (“W” body). Make sure of ####8708 Bob "Yehaa too" Metz No
EFI Shop Manual Delco
Same as for 91 Olds Cutlass, Buick Regal, Pontiac Grand Prix, manual for these also cover ABS mysticwarrior 550000 No
EGR Pipe (V8, haha, 4cyl's don't have one) Land Rover
Same as on Land Rover turbo Diesel engine 300TDi Larry No
Exhaust Manifold Stud

8mm x 125 stud Dr.Hess Yes
Fog Lamps Vauxhall Astra Mark 1 89 non SE LEW No
Fuel Filter WIX 33481 Fits GM,1989 Caddie Eldo V8 4.5L, NOT 33279 Dr.Hess Yes
Fuel Filter Fram G3727
TimRdLotus No
Fuel Filter Mot FG851

Fuel Filter Canton Racing #25-908 Inline filter for GM EFI with 16mm female inlet and outlet ports, $80 John Hammond No
Fuel Filter AC GF481

Fuel Injectors Borg-Warner 57033 New injector, 1987 Ford Turbo T-Bird Mark No
Fuel Injectors Bosch (Ford) E5ZE Fits Ford T'Bird, Mustang 2.3L Turbo, 36 lb low impedance Brown Top Travis No
Fuel Injectors Borg-Warner 27033 Rebuilt. 1987 Ford Turbo T-Bird Mark No
Fuel Injectors, SE Secondary Bosch DB5 19 lb/hr High Impedance Travis No
Fuel Injectors, V8 GM
Same as: 1995 Cadillac 4.6L V8 Eldo and Seville David T. No
Fuel Pressure Regulator GM Quad 4 Same as for Quad-4 motor
Fuel Pressure Regulator (V8) GM
From the Corvette engine that Lotus built Larry No
Fuel Pump European GM 06443228 fits some Land Rovers crazy canuck No
Fuel Pump Bosch 69223
TimRdLotus No
Fuel Pump GM
1986 GM Multi-Port EFI Fuel Pump.
1986 GM Multi-Port EFI Fuel Pump

Fuel Pump AC Delco EFP241 (60-90psi, 40Gal/hr) 85-89 Camaro, 88-89 Corsica + Berretta, 88 buick Regal crazy canuck No
Fuel Pump Carter (Federal-Mogul) P74006 1986 Buick Skylark V6 3.0L Dr.Hess Yes
Fuel Pump AC Delco 6443225
TimRdLotus No
Fuel Pump Pulse Dampe Delco
all mid to late 80's GMs cars, dealer item only no aftermarket crazy canuck No
Fuel Pump Strainer (screen)
FS-9, TS-9
crazy canuck No
Fuel Pump Strainer (screen) Carter (Federal-Mogul) STS-9 Not exact, but fits Dr.Hess Yes
Fuel Rail GM
Might be: Late 80's-mid 90's GM 2.2L EFI cast iron motor, Chevy Cavalier, Pontiac Sunbird, some Buicks Andrew P1989 No
Gas Cap Stant 11810 Fits 1982 VW Scirocco, slightly different cap. Seals swap over. Ed Young No
Gas Cap ACDELCO GT172 For V8. Fits some Corvettes. Get at Chevy dealer as aftermarket ones have ridge. JoeyO No
Gas Cap Murray Ultra Fuel Cap 6810 Fits 1988, ~$4 Ron No
Gas Tank retainer ring

mid to late 80's GM trucks includes O ring crazy canuck No
Gasket, manifold to turbo Felpro ES72811 Same as: 1984 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. $4.99 at O'Reilly's. Dr.Hess Yes
Gearbox Renault R-25 Turbo

Gearbox drain plug tool Snap-On PMP410 10mm square drive
Glove Box Lock

1981-1984 (early) 4 door Land Rover Range Rover "cubby box" Gareth No
Header Tank (plastic, S4s/V8 Coolant) & cap Peugeot
From a Peugeot 205 Cti/Gti from 1987-1990 (1.6 or 1.9L) Paul via Sanj No
Headlight Highbeam and Lowbeam Wagner 4000 Sealed Beam, Both the same. Dr.Hess Yes
Headlight Lift Rod Ends Aurora MW-M6, MG-M6 Also available at Ed No
Headlight Lift Rod Ends Igus
6mm Igus Plastic rod ends, Left and Right hand threads (1 ea) Marten No
Headlight Motor Controller Module GM
From 1992 Pontiac Firebird saguilar No
Headlight Motors Cardone Checker 49103 91 Pontiac Sunbird. Fiero/Firebird/Corvette (part # 49102) is prob a better match and stronger, but this works. Maj. John No
Headlight Motors GM
same as 1987-1988 Fiero, 1987-1992 Firebird, 1988-96 Corvette, GML-1, GMR-1
Headlight Motors GM
same as 88-91 Pontiac Sunbird
Hose, Turbo to Intake 50.200-400-103 Silicone hose, 2"ID x 4" long, longer than OEM. 48mm ID would be better, but very hard to find. Dr.Hess No
Hose, Turbo to Intake T Bolt Clamps 60242-33 2.11-2.42" for 2.0"ID hose. Dr.Hess No
Idle Air Control Valve (V8)

Same as Volvo 240 '89-'93 Guy T. No
Ignition Module AC-Delco D-1927A Fits 1987 Chevy Beretta, Cavalier, Corsica 2.0L FI TimRdLotus No
Ignition, MSD MSD DIS2, 6211 & 2 ea 8870 spacers To add multi-spark discharge to GMP4 ignition Dr.Hess No
Key, Door Cole VL4 Marked "Fits VOLVO USA V073S X30" Dr.Hess Yes
Key, Ignition Axxess+ 31R
Dr.Hess Yes
Key, Ignition Ilco X174 TR40 For Toyota Dr.Hess Yes
Key: Door Ilco 62FG

Key: Ignition Ilco X211TR44

Key: S4s

Fits Saab 9000, Vauxhall Cavalier (Opel Ascona) newburymess /mustard No
Knock Sensor Borg Warner S8009 Fits: 1990 Buick Apollo/Skylark 3.3L V6 Dr.Hess Yes
Lock Cylinder, Door

Same as: Early Land Rover Discovery, Range Rover, TR7 Les No
Lock Washers Nordlock various Available at, can be used in place of lock plates. Search for 'nordlock' Sietse K. No
Manifold Air Temp Sensor GM 25036751 Replaces 25037334 Mark No
Mirror, Side View Bracket Citroen C-95647738 Fits Citroen CX, Jim No
Nut, Exhaust Pipe to Turbo

Same as VW Golf GTI Leo No
Oil Cooler Setrab 913 89 non-SE Tom M. No
Oil Cooler Fittings

5/8" BSP dave C No
Oil Drain Plug Pegasus Auto Racing 3203-8 Plug 1/2" BSP aluminum plug. Get gasket too. Dr.Hess Yes
Oil Filter K&N HP-2004
Bill 95 Lotus No
Oil Filter Mobil 1 204

Oil Filter WIX 51068 Full length
Oil Filter WIX 51348 Shorter
Oil Filter NAPA Gold #1521 Made by WIX Jim 85 TE No
Oil Filter WIX 51307 Higher bypass valve setting, fits Volvo
Oil, Gearbox Castrol TAF-X 75W-90 GL-4 Available only in Europe.
Oil, Gearbox Castrol Syntorq LT 75W-85 API GL-4 General Motors (Part #12346190), Chrysler (Part #4637579) av8ndoc No
Oil, Gearbox Mobil SHC 630 Available from Graingers
O-Ring, cam cover rear cover thing
4mm thick, 50mm OD, 46mm ID Available in the Metric O-Ring box at Ace Hardware. About $1.50. Might not be exact, but it works. Dr.Hess Yes
O-Ring, Fuel Injector GM
Same as Corvette, Camaro w/LT1-5, LS1 or Dodge Daytona Charger. 14mm from any autoparts store. Travis No
Osygen Sensor Bosch 13030 Same as: 94-5 Honduh Passport, Isuzu: 92 Impulse, 93-5 Rodeo, 92-5 Trooper. Same plug, 4 wire. Dr.Hess No
Oxygen Sensor Bosch 0 258 003 022 Exact replacement Kenneth Golden No
Oxygen Sensor AC Delco 16054 OEM, marked "experimental" Dr.Hess Yes
Oxygen Sensor Bosch 0258 005 726 Universal 3 wire Cameron No
Paint, Engine Duplicolor DE 1607 Chev Orange/Red Engine Enamel (Ceramic 500 degree) "touched up a few nicks in the chargecooler / intake can't see a trace" Lou Senko No
Paint, Engine for 4 cyl Plasti-Kote #226 Chrysler Orange Not a wrinkle paint. Paint over a red wrinkle.
Paint, Engine for 4 cyl
GM Orange At Checker Auto Parts deecee No
Paint, Engine for V8 Duplicolor DE1632 Chrysler Industries Red
Paint, Engine Wrinkle Red for intake Krylon 3380, SKU# 724504033806 May have to be special ordered. Krylon 1-800-441-4223, or zgluszek No
Paint, Monaco White Dupont N9149
Dr.Hess No
Paint, Monaco White Dupont AB9149 Shade Value 1 Dr.Hess Yes
Paint, Nimbus Grey Dupont L9623 European formula, store has to request ingredients by fax, Lotus code A56 Dr.Hess No
Paint, Nimbus Grey ICI P4218116M Grey used with Monaco White
Paint, Seal Grey Dupont BC36483A Not grey used on Monaco White
Paint, Vulcan Grey Glasurit

Plug, Radiator vent
3/8 x 16TPI Use a nylon 3/8 x 16 x 1 bolt from the hardware store Dr.Hess Yes
Pressure Plate Valeo 391345 235 cp 8300 For S4s
primary fuel pump relay Carquest RY-30 maybe, on bosch cars?
Radiator JAE
Aluminum with 3ea 11" SPAL fans: $1200
Radiator Cap, Blanking Prestone RR-3 Should cross to Stant 10203 Dr.Hess No
Radiator Cap, Blanking Murry 7003 Same As Stant 10203, Fits 1985 - 1987 Jeep CHEROKEE, 1968 Mini Cooper, 1950 CHEVROLET BEL AIR L6 3.6 Liter, 1970 Jag XKE Dr.Hess Yes
Radiator Cap, Blanking Stant 10203 Fits 1985 - 1987 Jeep CHEROKEE, 1968 Mini Cooper, 1950 CHEVROLET BEL AIR L6 3.6 Literr, 1970 Jag XKE Dr.Hess Yes
Radiator Cap, Blanking AC AC 534-5 One on there now. Dr.Hess Yes
Radiator Cap, Blanking Genuine G1010-111883 Blanking cap for expansion tank Dr.Hess No
Radiator Cap, Blanking Eurospare GRC126 Blanking cap for expansion tank Dr.Hess No
Radiator Cap, Reservoir NAPA-BALKAMP 703-1442 Fits 1988, replaces Lotus A082K6042F, 15 lbs, non-vented, dual seal Atwell No
Radiator Hose, Intake manifold to Water Pump Gates #20877 EOM part number A912E2017F Travis No
Radiator Hose, Intake manifold to Water Pump Gates 24022, 5.5" Straight universal Gates hose, 1-3/8" ID Replaces OEM A912E2017F Dr.Hess Yes
Radiator Hose, Thermostat Housing to Pipe NAPA 7364 B912EL839F, Use part of this hose. Jim 91SE No
Radiator Hose, Thermostat Housing to Pipe Gates 20603 B912EL839F, Use part of this hose. Jim 91SE No
Relay, RPM

Same as Volvo 240 Mark F No
Seal, Camshaft
1.50x2.25.0.313 (CR14938) From bearing supply store matchup Jan Szott No
Seal, Engine Cover (bottom) 12335A52 Had double lip Sanj No
Seal, Engine Cover (top and bottom) 1120A412 Almost the same. Get about 20 ft. Dr.Hess Yes
Seal, Front Main (Crank)
52x68x8VTF From bearing supply store matchup Jan Szott No
Seal, Front Main (Crank)
INC 52004 GACO ANGUS Alternate front main aftermarket seal Ed No
Sender, Oil Pressure VDO VDO-360086D Available from Summit, does not have idiot light connections. techspy No
Sensor, Coolant (on block under intake) GM
Same as: 88 Buick Skylark/Chevy Beretta Crazy Canuck No
Shift Boot JC Whitney 488348 Same as 67-75 Jeep CJ, from, $8, make your own screw holes. Dr.Hess Yes
Shift Boot OMIX-ADA 948185, PO# 0067019 Same as 67-75 Jeep CJ, make your own screw holes. Dr.Hess Yes
Shift Cable/Translator Hub Rod Ends 6275K11 They dont have the same swivel range but are sealed $10 vs $89 ea, working great ragingfool No
Shocks, rear QA1 DR or UR5855P1 Requires adapter to be made for top, stock ride height, 12-17" travel Jan No
Side Markers Italy Late 80's-90's Italian Cars Fiat, Ferrari, Lambo, "from about all Italian cars 80's-90's" Sanj No
Side Markers Suzuki
side markers from Suzuki Sidekick will work Frank Fine No
Side View Mirrors Citroen
From 1989 Citroen CX, 95647738=metal ring, Bill@TBIRT Products 610-363-1725
Spark Plug NGK 7084 Gap .035 Platinum BPR6EGP
Spark Plug NGK 5089 PGR6B Double Platinum Gap .035
Spark Plug NGK 6427 BPR6EY .035, V-Power plug Regular plug, 89 non-SE Dr.Hess Yes
Spark Plug NGK
BPR6EN regular plug, SE Dr.Hess Yes
Spark Plug Champion RN7YC Gap .035
Spark Plug NGK 6637 Iridium BPR6EIX Dr.Hess Yes
Spark Plug NGK 7131 Gap .035 BPR6ES regular plug, Carbed Turbo Dr.Hess Yes
Spark Plug Bosch 7592 Gap .025
Spark Plug Wires Magnecor 45292 Buy from KV85 competition 8.5mm Dr.Hess Yes
Speedometer VDO
A089 N 60 16F 120.020/170/011 W=0 960 Us, OEM, Discontinued (for good reason) Dr.Hess Yes
Springs, Front

154 lb/in
Springs, Front

171 lb/in
Steering Rack Bearing 1
HK1512, 15mm ID x 12mm needle roller bearing, 14mm long fits. Marten No
Steering Rack Bearing 2
6202 ball bearing Sealed one OK marten No
Steering Rack, Power (S4) Saab (GM)
Same as about 1993 Saab 9000, for power steering racks only greezmunky No
Steering U Joint Flaming River Industries #FR1761 9/16"-36 X 9/16"-36, Opie No
Strut, Rear hatch Monroe 4442 0233 For 84 TE G body Joe Mazurk No
Strut, Rear hatch Strongarm 4530 For V8: Strongarm Gas Charged Supports,They are a little strong/have to rig the light connector Brian No
Strut, Rear hatch Mighty Lift D-95765 Autozone, 95-lbs, probably for use without the wing. Karl No
Strut, Rear hatch Mighty Lift D-95297 Autozone, 120-lbs Karl No
Strut, Rear hatch Mighty Lift C-95029 Autozone, 130-lbs, for use with wing. Karl No
Strut, Rear hatch Stabilus SG336004 Lift-o-mat Sacha No
Strut, Rear hatch Stabilus 548900 Elektrolift with defroster connectors, Sach's part number Sacha No
Struts, Bonnet Honda
1992 Civic rear hatch Luc Savoie No
Struts, Hatch
Autozone RB8795018
Mark J. No
Struts, Rear Hatch (boot lift supports) Advance Auto Parts #4408 $17.98 ea rjjuge No
Struts, Rear Hatch (boot lift supports) Stabilus SG33604 For rear hatch, no wing, same as 93-96 Jag XJS front bonnet w/lock Pete B. No
Stud, Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Metric Screw & Tool Co M10 x 35 10N350DIN22/939FO A little too long, but useable if you cut them down and clean up the thread. Stainless.. Dr.Hess Yes
Suspension Bushings Energy Suspension 9.9107G Rear suspension bushings (upper and lower) and the leading arm on the lower front wishbone Tom M. No
Switches, Binnacle (lights, etc.)

From an Austin Maestro Dr.Hess No
Tail Light, Left Toyota 81561-1A240, 1985 Toyota Corolla SR5 3 door AE86 Dr.Hess No
Tail Light, Right Toyota 81551-1A240 1985 Toyota Corolla SR5 3 door AE86 Dr.Hess No
Temperature gauge sender VDO 323095 4 cyl Delco injected cars, use no sealant blackangelesprit No
Thermostat Lotus
Use only genuine Lotus part
Thermostat Gasket

Same as Chevy V8 Atwell Haines No
Third Brake Light GM
1989 Corvette EFF No
Tie Rod Ends, Outer GM
Same as 94 Pontiac Trans Am, fits on a S4 (power steering cars only per Sanj) Jim Knowles No
Tie Rod Ends, Outer GM 21011027 Same as 4th gen Chevy Camaro (1993-1997), Lotus Part A082H6063S, fits 1994 Sport 300 Siocox No
Timing Belt Nissan
Same as: Nissan 99-02 3.3L SOHC V6, 92-94 Maxima SOHC V6, 99-04 Frontier 3.3L SOHC V6 Dr.Hess No
Timing Belt Gates T249 Same size as T188, but stronger/newer materials (Highly Saturated Nitrile) Ron No
Timing Belt Dayco 95249 Same as T249 Ron No
Timing Belt Gates T188 Fits 1991 Peugeot 405 1.9L DOHC (on car now) Dr.Hess Yes
Tires BF Goodrich Traction TA

Tires Michelin XGTH4 in 235/60/15

TPS (Throtle Position Sensor) Wells TPS 112 1988 Pontiac Grand AM, 4cyl 138D, 2.3L MFI DOHC Quad 4, fits 1991 Lotus Esprit Turbo SE Randall Nichols No
TPS (Throtle Position Sensor) Borg Warner EC3012 Crosses to GM 17106680, for Quad 4. Dr.Hess No
TPS, MAP sensors GM

Transaxle Oil Mobil SHC630 3.15 qts, available from Grainger Supply
Transmission Renault UN1 Same as 1989 AMC Eagle Medallion (rebadged Renault 21). Different ratios, bell housing. medic327 No
Turbo Mounting Nuts Kaylock
Self Locking Steel Nuts
Turbocharger Garrett TB0373, 465133-0001/2/3e Same as A910E6889F, A/R 0.48, Compressor Inducer 1.73 Dr.Hess No
Turn Signal/Wiper Arm British Leland/Lucas
From Austin Marinas, Land Rover series 3, Lucas 35378B 3488 LH Stalk,35379A 4488 RH Stalk (wiper) John Watkins No
Vacuum Hose to Fuel Pressure Regulator Gates 27042 5/32" Dr.Hess Yes
Vacuum pump NAPA 64-1005 same as GM 78-41746, needs more mods than 64-1006 Tim Engel No
Vacuum Pump A1 64-1006 $96 at O'Reilley's. Fits 1992 Ford Truck SUPER DUTY - V8-446 7.3L Dsl. Exhaust port at back of diaphram Dr.Hess Yes
Vacuum pump NAPA 64-1006 same as GM 78-44038 Tim Engel No
Vacuum Pump, Electric GM 10098493 Fits 95S4S, $145 from Bill No
Vacuum Pump, S4/S4s Chevy
Same as used on a ZR1 Corvette Ewen No
Vacuum Pump, S4/S4s Ford
From 04-08 F250, 350, 450 Diesel, you have to change the electrical connectors Ewen No
Valve Shims Saab
Same as Saab 99 090-120 Tim Engel No
Valve Shims

Same as: Lotus TC, Cosworth, Coventry Climax, Hillman Imp 060-150 size Tim Engel No
Valve Shims Triumph, Jag
Same as TR7 070-120, Jag XK 6 Tim Engel No
Wastegate Actuator Garrett 430099-0019 88-on 4 cyl Scott Rushworth No
Water Hose Head to Water Pump

Same as Austin Healey/MG 2-683 hose valve to heater, Lotus #A912E1837F
Wellseal tranny oil seal sealant Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket a viscous brown fluid in a small white plastic jar with a brush applicator top, not Forma-a-Gasket A or B in tube Tim Engel No
Wheel Bearing, Front Inner Toyota 90368-31067 Fits 1984 Toyota Celica front
Wheel Bearing, Front Inner
NACHI LM67048 Number on bearing on an 89 non-SE Marten No
Wheel Bearing, Front Inner BCA A6 For 1988
Wheel Bearing, Front Kit Repco WBK2884 900CAND8 Seal, outer and inner bearings Simon No
Wheel Bearing, Front Outer BCA A2 For 1988
Wheel Bearing, Front Outer
NSK LM11949 Number on bearing on an 89 non-SE Marten No
Wheel Bearing, Front Outer Toyota 90368-19037-77 Fits 1984 Toyota Celica front
Wheel Bearing, Rear

Front from: Renault Fuego 1980-'82?,Dodge Monaco, Eagle Medallian,Eagle Premier andrewp1989 No
Wheel Bearing, Seal, front
NGK AA2773E Number on bearing on an 89 non-SE Marten No
Wheel Bearing, Seal, front National 224820 For 1988, likely 88-92
Wheel Bearing, Seal, front Toyota 90311-48001 Fits 1984 Toyota Celica front
Window Motor Delco
Same Jag: 88-91 Vandem Plas, 87-90 XJS Coupe, make sure 8 tooth gear Dr.Hess No
Window Motor Bosch
Jag 83-87 XJ6 useable with spacer, make sure it has an 8 tooth gear Dr.Hess Yes
Window Motor Delco
Right: 05045665 Left: 05045664 '58-'78 Corvette Unconfirmed, perhaps G car only Jim 85 TE No
Window Motor Relay CarQuest 56-1555 Fits 94 S4, Revised Harness Cars Jim Knowles No
Window Primer
Black Urethane Windshield Thin with acetone, spray with cheap air brush.
Window Primer SIKA 206 G+P Primer for side windows. Put on car & glass before pookie.
Window rail slide, Nylon Window Slider GM (Chevy) 9666748 "Roller WD 263D." plastic that slides left and right in the (upper) carrier channel that has the female side of a ball joint fitting Black S4s No
Window Switch Torrix 241584 From a Mini Metro
Window Switch

From a MG Montego Simon No

Same as Delorean, G car only.
Windshield Washer Pump Anco 6115 Can be modified to fit. Same physical size Tom No
Windshield Wiper Arm Rain-X
24" Rain-x blade and an adapter kit from behind the counter at Autozone Pete No
Windshield Wiper Arm Bosch 40924 24" Micro Edge Excel blade with install kit from Bosch 19" for the pin. Dr.Hess Yes
Windshield Wiper Controller Lucas 6A In Driver's footwell, don't forget to hook up ground wire to screw. Dr.Hess Yes
Windshield wiper motor A-1 5_REMAN / Autozone 43-1057 / 204105 shave the mounting pegs about 1/8", attached male spade connectors to the plugs rjjuge No
Windshield wiper motor Honduh Civic Motor from Honda Civic can have the housing altered and fit. Nicholas Shen No
Windshield wiper motor

G bodies use TR7 wiper motor, Stevens are different


Also, be sure to check out the EFF and in particular THIS PAGE: from Tony Grasso that has much good info on the GM parts of the engine management.